longchamp outlet Make 4 easy Bamboo Flutes for free
Make 4 easy Bamboo Flutes for free
Hi. This will be the home for my edits and later thoughts about the project that I want to add. I will read each one of your comments, and if I feel you have a good question of have pointed out a major flaw, I will make amends and post my answer here. So, go ahead. Enjoy the instruments!
Warning: The following information describes methods to preserve and increase the longevity of your fragile bamboo instruments. I am sure that these instruments will make beautiful music without further modification, but if you are willing to try these extra steps, you are welcome to. I am not responsible for an instrument that was harmed by using this extra steps, however I will take credit for one that sings like an angel. Good luck!
Multiple Commenters have expressed their worry about the fact that my instruments are not cured. Cured bamboo is less suceptible to cracking, drying out and becoming brittle, damage by moisture, and of course has that familiar "tiki" golden color. While I have experimented several times with curing my bamboo, I felt that for this instructable, which was for easy bamboo flutes, curing shouldn take up to much of the space. Curing at first can see very intimidating and dangerous, as it does involve nearly burning your bamboo. Curing is very easy though, and it will weather proof and child proof your flutes pretty well. There are multiple methods.
In India, bamboo is usually cured by soaking it in water for ninety days, then drying it in the sun for two weeks. This is obviously inconvenient for the average maker, and risks various types of water damage and warping.
In Japan, the classic method is to drain the sugary resin from the green bamboo by heating it over a charcoal fire. The outside of the culm becomes very sticky and covered in sap, which it then removed with a wet cloth. This minimally waterproofs the material, burns out all bugs and imperfections, and after thousands of years, has earned it Skyfinity seal of approval.
However, a charcoal fire may or may not be the best thing for an inexperienced bamboo flautist. It is important to never let your bamboo become black with soot. This will take a lot of scrubbing to get out, and will stain anything it touches. To avoid this, keep the bamboo turning, and don let any one area spend to much time in the flame. Simply hold the bamboo in a place where the heat is just enough to get the resin popping and leeching though the bark, which is often accompanied by a sizzling sound. This level of heat can be achieved by use of a blowtorch or even a simple gas stove.
Once your bamboo is cured, cut, and is finally a beautiful flute, it may be important to "oil" it. Oiling wooded flutes and other instruments ensures their protection against humidity. There are many commercial oils that are sold to oil wooden recorders and specialty wooden flutes, but there has been so much argument over which of these oils is best, that for your bamboo, starting from scratch is better. Go to your local "health" food store, and scope out their selection of natural oils. Always avoid oils that mention being "boiled" and altogether avoid Boiled linseed oil. Your best bet is probably Flax oil. This type of oil will keep you flute oiled for longer than the "boiled" variety, and is perfectly safe to use with your flute. Oil using a soaked cloth, and run it in and out the body of the flute with a stick or bent wire. Roll the cloth up tightly to oil the finger holes, but not the embouchure, as droplets of moisture here could cause a shrill hoarse sound.
I grow a lot of bamboo on my property and am always looking for interesting ideas for it. It seems that curing bamboo is a concern for many here. To start with, never choose fresh, new bamboo. It should be 3 5 years old. If it withers and becomes brittle, it was harvested too early. You can usually tell the young stalks by how green and fresh they look. Look for ones with a dull and even yellowish tint. The leaves might look faded. The skin should resist your fingernail, with no give. Once you harvested an older stalk, keep it out of the sun and it will last forever. There is no need to cure bamboo if you follow this advice.
You may be able to get some bamboo online. Maybe there is a Botanical gardens near you. Bamboo grows quickly and needs to be pruned back a lot. if you befriend someone at a Botanical garden, they may give you some trimmed off pieces. I live in the Great Lakes region of the Northern US. To get bamboo, I can sometimes trade other flute makers for wood that they can not get in the South. Perhaps you cold find a flute makers forum online. Not all bamboo is suitable for flute making. Try for pieces about 20mm to 25mm in diameter with walls between 3mm and 5mm thick.
Alternatively, a type of wood I know you can find that is good for flute making is elderberry. It has a soft, styrofoam like pith that you can clean out easily with a sharpened metal rod. Hopefully, you can find some with the center, hollowed out area at least 15mm 20mm diameter, but I have made tiny flute with a 5mm bore. Native Americans from this region used elderberry to make flutes.
The Shakuhachi is traditionally made from a root for a reason: the Shakuhachi is it own type of flute. It a weird, end blown, mellow instrument that has an odd traditional Japanese scale and distinct tone. Part of that tone comes from the unique bore of the inside of the flute. The root section of the bamboo used in the Shakuhachi is dense, unlike the hollow areas of the upper sections. This allows the flautist to carve an inner bore that is less wide than that of the opening. If you do not use a piece of root section bamboo, you will not be able to bore the base out to the correct diameter, and will thus compromise the intonation. If you would like to make an end blown flute that is not like the Shakuhachi, all you would need to do is apply the flutomat program to your end blown design.
Do what you want, but I suggest a root.
Well, I try the root, but my major issue At the moment is how to knock out the nodes, as I don have a piece of metal long enough and none of my drill bits can make the cut (No pun intended)
I figured I have to make one smaller. but the issue is the dimensions; intonation isn too important right now, but is very nice to have, If you know the right placement on them I appreciate it for it 😛 (I guessing about a 13 (Sorry bout using imperial, I just a dumb American :P) piece? Maybe 15 18?
Take a piece of long metal rod (1/2 inch dia) and grind a point on the end like a pencil. Heat it with a propane torch until it is red. It will burn through the nodes nicely. Get a piece of rod that is as long as necessary to reach more than halfway through the length of the bamboo. You can also use a burning rod to make the finger holes. The nice thing about that is it leaves no splinters, whiskers, or cracks.
Regarding location of finger holes: Every flute is different. Measure your flute from the sound hole to the end and divide it in thirds. Try to keep your finger holes in the middle third or you may have problems with the top and bottom notes jumping octaves (called nodal interference). Make your holes about a thumb width apart. Make them smaller than you think they should be. The notes will be flat. Make them larger a little at a time until you get the desired notes. Use a keyboard or electronic tuner to check your progress.
Wow! This is the first I heard of someone making these for a school project!
Good Luck to you!
I would love to see what you done so far with the traditional flute. Does it play well? Could you post pictures?
As for connecting the pan pipes, my method was using very fine thread looped around each tube over and over again, which was, as you predicted, an arduous task. Keep in mind that these flutes were the very first I made, and I have since then learned from my mistakes.
Unfortunately, I still feel the best and most secure way to get the tubes attached to one another is to tie them. I suggest you use a thicker twine, not thread, and tie each cross over only once. Make sure it good and tight, and you should be fine. You probably were interested in using glue to join them, however If you use a thick twine and only loop once for each tube, you should be fine.
Also, I didn make this clear in the instructable, but it is very important to cure your bamboo. Have you done that? These flutes were quick, dirty, and uncured, but if you want a lasting instrument to be proud of, you should cure your bamboo. If you haven there still time to cure the transverse flute you made.
Anyway, please tell me what you think, and I be happy to help you in any way I can. Thank you for the prompt reply, that is alway nice 😛
cheap ray ban
cheap ray bans uk
ray ban sunglasses uk
ralph lauren sale uk
cheap the north face
cheap ralph lauren
cheap longchamp bags
the north face outlet uk
cheap moncler uk
cheap ray bans
ray ban outlet uk
cheap longchamp uk
moncler outlet uk
cheap michael kors
cheap moncler uk
cheap michael kors uk
cheap ralph lauren
longchamp outlet uk
cheap north face
moncler outlet uk
moncler outlet uk
ralph lauren outlet uk
michael kors outlet uk